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Nikko, Japan’s other shrine central

Posted September 10th, 2008. Filed under Travelling Japan

other‘ shrine central? Well yes! It goes without saying that Kyoto is the place to go for traditional Japan, just don’t pay any mind to the thousands of boring cement buildings that have sprung up. I don’t want to complain too much about Kyoto though as I think it’s a great place.

Anyway, Nikko is the ‘other’ place to go for traditional Japan, and in a way I think it’s better – there’s no office buildings, and it’s more out in the countryside.  Of course, it’s rammed full of tourists, both Japanese and foreign, but that’s just something you have to deal with. It’s reasonably well done – the shrine area has nearby hotels that people stay at, so if you stay in a ryokan (a sort of Japanese Inn) any distance from the tourist area, you’ll be avoiding most of the crowds. Also, you get an onsen. I was in the outdoors one when a collosal storm struck. Nothing like pelting, ice cold rain hitting you when you’re in a hot spring.

Anyway, here’s my whistle stop tour of Nikko! Hold onto your hats! Click any of the photos for a huge version.

The Red Bridge. Descriptive title!

This is the red bridge. Quite self-explanatory I feel, it’s a big red bridge! You can pay to walk across it, but we opted not to, as there was a big queue. To walk across a bridge. So we pushed on, until we arrived at the shrine complex with the other billion people who turned up that day. Can’t complain really – we were tourists just like everyone else, but it’s nice and British to do it anyway!

Probably the most famous thing we saw was this;

See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil

See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil

These monkeys are the source of the famous “See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil” saying. In Japanese they have a similar title 「見ざる、聞かざる、言わざる」 (Don’t look monkey, don’t hear monkey, don’t speak monkey) and they are very cool. The only thing is – the plaque they are on is smaller than you might think – you have to look carefully or you’ll walk right past it and miss the chance to take the classic ‘everyone does one of the monkey poses’ picture! (No, I’m not posting the one we took!)

Moving swiftly on, here’s an example of just how awesome Nikko’s buildings are.

Pagoda of Light

Pagoda of Light

This pagoda isn’t even that special, apparently, but I think it’s awesome. It’s inside one of the shrine complexes, reaching way, way up, although I had a look around the net and through some guidebooks and couldn’t find anything about it. Perhaps I will break new ground researching about it!

Once you’re done with all your shrine exploring madness, but before you go back to the Inn for a good onsen soak, you could always use a…

Onsen in the street

Onsen in the street

…foot onsen! In the street! We decided to pass as the lure of a full onsen in the ryokan was too tempting, but there was another one of these near the station and that one had a really long queue! People love their feet these days!

Anyway, I hope this has inspired at least one person to make it to Nikko one day. It’s not too far from Tokyo and well worth the journey!

For more photos of Nikko, check out my collection here.


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9 Responses so far

  1. lynsey says:

    you should put the photo its funny!! possibly the best photo in my whole camera collection!!

  2. Mike says:

    lynsey: Oh, in the interest of sillyness:

    http://g.photos.cx/seenoevil-13.jpg

  3. alice says:

    I seem to remember that Nikko is possible to do on a day trip on the train from Tokyo too? Although staying there seems like a good idea as I remember being quite rushed.

  4. Mike says:

    alice: Yeah, I think it’s doable. Go from Asakusa, ideally by Shinkansen, if you go local train as I did it takes a few hours. You could take the last one back to Tokyo and have a great time, but you’d miss the onsens, which are the best part ;)

  5. Tornadoes28 says:

    Nikko is my favorite place. I don’t go during holidays or weekends though.

    The shrines of Nikko were established in the 700s. But Nikko gained its greatest importance in the early 1600s as the burial place of the greatest shogun of Japan, Tokugawa Iyesau.

  6. Mike says:

    Tornadoes28: Thanks for the facts :) One day I’m going to collect all the stuff people taught me in the blog comments and post them. It’d be quite long.

  7. scoby says:

    My father in law drove from Kasukabe, Saitama to Nikko and I really enjoyed the drive up the mountain. Someone had parked their car by the roadside and we saw one of Nikko’s wild monkeys sitting on the bonnet watching the traffic go by.

    The red bridge wasn’t busy when we drove past but we didn’t stop anyway, FIL just said “that bridge is a world heritage centre” – and kept driving …

    The other highlight for me was the kegon waterfall, really beautiful sight with access through a lift shaft carved in the valley side.

    Nice post :)

  8. Shania says:

    Amazing photos!

  9. Mike says:

    Scoby: I missed out on the Kegon Waterfall. Next time I’ll make it to them without fail.

    Shania: Thanks :)

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